Pending Coffee

A caffè sospeso (pronounced [kafˈfɛ ssoˈspeːso, -eːzo]; Italian for “suspended coffee”) or pending coffee is a cup of coffee paid for in advance as an anonymous act of charity. The tradition began in the working-class cafés of Naples, where someone who had experienced good luck would order a sospeso, paying the price of two…

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In Naples we stink.

In Naples we stink. I smell of suff, of Vesuvius lava. Stink of Posillipo, of Partenope, of songs sung all over the world and translated into all languages. Stench of mussels, Babá, puff pastries, homemade desserts and pure stink of…

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